Okay. DR Mod time... why? Why not.

So have done a bit of research on this topic and went out and bought a nice Normally Closed switch from DSE, some crimps and wiring. Just over $10. Went to screw the switch into my accelerator stop block so that it pressed when WOT but the screw I used broke the plastic screw hole in the switch. Oops.

Anyway I'm not much of an electronics guy so could anyone here that's done the DR mod help with a couple of good quality pics of their setup? I basically want a WOT switch hooked up as easy as possible. I have wiring, a nice switch (with one broken screw hole), crimps, crimper, other misc stuff from my electronic toolkit. Is it best to wire switch inside cab (to pedal stop) or inside engine bay (I've heard stories of meltiness)?

I tried using the big org but the 'original' DR Mod post by JIME has dead links on all the pics.

Looking for tips/tricks/pics. Thanks!

ok the mod is detailed with good pics on JIMES (10second maxima guy) website
http://jime.f-sw.com/DR%20Mod.html

Site didn't come up for me .. so not sure if its already covered.

But I brought a missile switch cover and on/off toggle switch that I use to bypass the DR mod.

The DR mod should only really be used for race conditions ... that way you can go WOT without the DR getting disconnected. When you want to race (@ the strip) just lift the missle switch cover and turn it on.. hit WOT and the DR will disconnect.

The one I got was from Jaycar in New Market and looks like carbon fibre instead of red



If you do this the toggle switch you need will need to have 6 contacts on the bottom. That way when its off the DR circuit is still closed, when the toggle switch is on the DR circuit is still closed until you hit the WOT switch.

DR mod with WOT switch installed and OH IS IT WORKING!

So happy with this mod... I didn't install with a on/off switch but what I did do was setup connector terminals where I cut the wire so I can just unplug the WOT switch circuit and reconnect the cut wires hence reenabling the DR circuit permanently. All I have to do is pull over, pop bonnet and reconnect. Anyway isn't the consensus on the big org that shifting at 100% Line pressure when WOT will actually save your transmission from redline shifts?

My VQ20 is now spinning the wheels into 2nd when WOT haha. And you DEFINITELY know when the DR is disconnected. I drove 20metres with it disconnected just to see what normal driving was like. Its not pleasant - going from P to D jerks the car so a manual or WOT switch is a must. Will post pics when I can get my hands on a good camera and light conditions.


Gear required for Intake mounted WOT Switch:
1x $5 Switch from DSE (has common terminal and then one for Normally Open and one for Normally Closed (what you want) labelled NO and NC obviously)
1x Piece of pliable aluminium for creating a custom bracket ($3 from Placemakers/Bunnings - what you want is called a 'soaker')
2x tiny nuts&bolts (I paid $5 for a pack at DSE)
2-3m of 16gauge cable ($1m max)

All up this mod cost me about $20 because I managed to break the first switch I bought. It was kind of pushing my limits a bit to get a tidy and reliable install (I never did workshop in school). Nevertheless I'm happy with the results.

okkkkkkkkayyyy then....

Here's the Drop Resistor itself - yes my electrical tape work is shoddy I will redo it when I can find my good tape.

And here's the switch. I still need to trim the excess metal from the bracket - anyone got any ideas what a cheap way to get rid of the excess would be?

Looks wicked man!

Tin snips?

Welcome ot the DR mod club, you will be locking up your torque converter in no time!

What i did was just get a stiff bit of electrical cable with insulator around it and a relay, if you connect the battery to 1 end of the relay, and to the other end of the relay we connect the bit of electrical cable, and then position it so that only the copper wire grounds itself to the chassy at wide open throttle (because i had 00vi, i had to ground the TB to the chassy anyway, hence the seccond cable) then on the "switch" side of the relay we just splice into the DR cables using the normally closed connections, so that when the relay is engaged the DR cables are opened. and we get full line pressure during the shifts.

let me know if you have any problems.

umm... what is "DR" ???

Drop resistor. Its an always-on circuit (well mine was ) that makes your car change gears at 80% line pressure. With it disconnected your car shifts at 100% line pressure (drops into gear without clutching like what you would do if you were racing a manual). Problem with having it disconnected is that your car will shift HARD when just nana driving. So you hook it up to a Normally Closed switch that disconnects when you are at Wide Open Throttle (pedal to the metal).

The DR is the grey box on the bottom right of my 1st pic above. Its the one with the connector plug in it with 2 wires coming out.

Woaah "my whitewofl" you have lots of mods and I can't recall hearing about them

How much is your car making on the dyno? And whats your 1/4 time because I see you have the shift_fast but thats only for the strip, no?

asif, i've mad a massive deal about getting the 00vi from the states, i was so excited, actually i have done more than whats on that list, perhaps i should make a thread.. infact, i will, cause i haven't taken that many pictures of my mods, give me something to do while i'm "on call" for work anyway (can't go out and do anything away from home.. )

Hmm I was off the site for a month or two .. must have been then

Oncall? IT? Wireless 3G card FTW

okay I fixed it up/mangled with some cheapo snips... heeaps cleaner now sorry just realized the 2nd photo i took is really bad -its looking down from the Throttle Body.

Did mine when I had to get a new tranny, might look at putting in WOT switch because its too hard driving round everyday, jerking all over the show lol

definitely should only use with WOT switch .. way to hard on trans for partial throttle shifts

Mine is permanently disconnected. Get a supercharger and even granny driving feels like a normal shift. Mind you, my trans is farked...

Does is change down/up immediately mate? No waiting?

No getting that terrible limbo between gears as if it's not in 1 or 2 or any gear in particular for a second or so.

yeah sort of its more instant transistion between gears than the lag as it rolls over into the next gear. no waiting when wot



doh thats why your tranny forked - permantently disconnected .. So when your going 2000rpm and shift from 1st to 2nd it will be a big thumping shift

Well actually - it seems when the car gets boost, the shudders you get from a permanently disconnected DR seem to go. It seems to lower the line pressure when you have boost. I think it requires there to be more manifold vacuum, but when boosting, you tend to never have any

With the DR plugged in with boost.. the gear changes take about three times longer than N/A. When the DR is unplugged the gear changes are pretty much like what they were with it plugged in and NA

the way I'd describe the gear changes in my car with the DR is as if you are driving a manual and just thump through gears dropping/stabbing the clutch to change. The car will jerk a bit or the wheels will spin as the engine torques up in the new gear.